Through some sort of chemical reaction it turns rust into black iron oxide. The product is two parts that you mix at a 4:1 ratio and it can be wiped on, brushed on, or sprayed on, which is the route I took. I used a cheap syphon feed gun to shoot it on and a brush to push it into those hard to reach areas. It took about 30 minutes to do the frame using this method. It is kind of milky looking as it hits the metal and goes on quite thin.
The rust turns black and disappears as it dries. Once it dries, it ready for the next step which is the rust encapsulator.
The rust encapsulator in available red, black, and silver. I am using black on all the frame parts and silver on all the exposed area. Unlike the POR-15 it is not light sensitive. I will however, be using some type of silver automotive paint on the exposed frame and bumper parts.
And now for a serious warning... in an earlier post I used a PPG primer called K36. It is mixed with a catalyst. When you mix it together use it up. DO NOT LEAVE IT IN THE GUN AND GO EAT. CLEAN THE GUN OUT IMMEDIATELY!!! You might come back from your meal to find a solid mass in the gun. If you use your cup gun on a professional level, you might have spent around around $350 on it. After you spend 2 hours taking every part off and cleaning it, then spending another hour rebuilding it with new gasket and seals, you might find out the gun does not work properly. And when you take the gun to Jack to be serviced, he might laugh at you and point you out as he tells the other guys what a fool you are. So, clean the gun out right away so you do not have an expensive learning experience.
1 comment:
Great blog, hope you beat those VAP guys! On the rust converter, as a note to others, make sure you get any scale and loose rust off (otherwise it will comeback). I used a similar product by Rustoleum and it held up for 15+ years, prep is everything. Keep up the hard work, you're doing a great job.
Jason
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