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I had made two belly skins out of 5052 aluminium. Our first attempt at the street side did not go so well, so after a week of mulling it over we wanted to get the curb side right.
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Instead of using force we coersed the sheet into place. We used clecoes to hold it in place as we worked it from the wheel well, back to the rear.
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Once all the clecos were in place, I began replacing them with solid rivets. We just took the clecos out one at a time and worked from back to front.
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The solid rivets have a gold coating on them that will come off easily.
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I found a variety of sizes is important. Most often I was going through two layers of metal and the #4 was perfect for that. Most of the shell attachment required a #5 for I was going through the shell, the belly pan, and the "c" channel. There were a few occations that a #6 was used such as through all the layers and then the stud and into the steel angle that connects the frame, floor, belly pan, "c" channel and shell.
2 comments:
Why are you using solid rivets? How are you applying them ?
These type of rivet were used originally so that is the main reason. When the rivet is a structural one, it has to be solid... solid rivets are much stronger than the Olympic type.
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